Are the new designers who take over the creative directorships of these houses following the design aesthetics that the original names followed or are they going off in their own directions using references from the house’s archives to inspire them?
Are they reinterpreting the look, the cachet or just in it to make money? Where elegance and sophistication was the catchphrase most used to describe these “old” houses what would the catchphrase be now. Previously we could see continuous evolution, the refinement of a line, a certain aesthetic, what do we see now?
Here are some then and now photos of some such houses that had their beginnings almost half a century ago and what they are producing now? What do you think?
Pierre Balmain
Balenciaga
Christian Dior
Chanel
Givenchy
Nina Ricci
Yves Saint Laurent
Except for John Galiano at Dior and Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, I'm not so sure that any of the modern designers at the classic brands are an improvement in terms of the original designs.
ReplyDeleteDior and Chanel are so iconic, it'd be impossible to not reference them, I think.
ReplyDeleteBut poor Nicolas Ghesquiere....what a difficult task he has there.
I ALWAYS LOVE HOW YOU MIX YOUR VINTAGE PHOTOS WITH MODERN ONES AND YOU CANT TELL THE DIFFERENCE :)
ReplyDeleteThis is a subject of great interest to me. I think that in the case of Balmain and Balenciaga, it is rather pointless and irrelevant to use the illustrious name in a way not connected to the great heritage; I mean why not just start afresh?
ReplyDeleteThe fashions are most successful when the house has an identifiable signature look, such as Chanel, or Pucci, and current designs reference them but change colours, proportions, materials, etcetera. I've often thought that some of those houses did such wonderful designs that their vintage pieces should be adapted and re-issued as deluxe ready to wear. A good example would be your photo of the ensemble by Dior with the black scarf and hat.
I hate it when I see a fashion that is distressed, shredded, very street, and edgy in a way that doesn't remotely look like something Balmain or Balenciaga would design. It is like calling a well used skateboard a new Rolls Royce. I don't so much object to these modern designs as have a problem with it being associated with a heritage that it seems to not understand. In a way it is disrespectful.
brilliant post david, i love how you take me to considerations that i haven't visited yet and totally see why you have. you're brilliant!
ReplyDeleteAre any of the 50's photographs available for purchase? I would like to frame some for my dressing room. I'm having a hard time finding sources. Any help? Thank you. I really enjoy your blog.
ReplyDeleteintricate details on all the garments- love it.
ReplyDeleteJose C.
xx
http://myvisualpleasures.blogspot.com
I stay in then....
ReplyDeleteBelle, you are right I think Lagerfeld and Galliano are using the right points of reference for their designs.
ReplyDeleteAM, Jules and Jose, many thanks for your comments.
Anomynous, Sites like Getty and Corbis sell images.
Jotaelle, yes I think I am with you
Mr SWF- very apt commentary