Thursday, September 10, 2009

More Savoir Faire with The Marchesa

I have just picked up from the Library a copy of Infinite Variety, the definitive biography of the Marchesa Luisa Casati! Previously I had done a posting on this remarkable woman which merely scratched the surface of the great savoir faire that she possessed. Long dead and buried she is still a constant source of inspiration for couturiers and artists alike.

I like biographies with pictures and this one doesn’t disappoint. However what does surprise me is the fact for such a woman who was one of the most painted and photographed of her time, little pictorial evidence exists (same can be said for Misia Sert). As most of you know I love to illustrate my posts, and was continually frustrated in my search of images of these two remarkable women to use.

However do not despair! I have found a photograph of the Marchesa taken around 1940, after she had lost all her considerable wealth and was living in London almost penniless. For someone on reduced circumstances she displays a remarkable presence and savoir faire.

I also can’t resist using the below image of Marisa Berenson (Schiaparelli’s granddaughter) dressed as Casati in the late 60’s. Kudos to Ms. Berenson for capturing the spirit perfectly.

Cant wait to read the biography and am saving it for Italy, so I can get in the true spirit of things!

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Savoir Faire with Misia

Misia Sert, born in the shadows of the Tsars at Tsarkoe Selo in 1872, patron of the arts and composers, friend of the avante gard, definitely had the savoir faire and the courage to carry herself through the many husbands she had and her glittering salons in Paris. Anybody who wanted to be somebody crossed her threshold, as the list of Misia Sert's friends would read like a who's who of the cultural elite of Paris from the end of the Second Empire to World War II.

A gifted pianist she married before she was 16 her first husband Tadeusz Natansan, a Polish émigré politician and journalist, later to become the editor of La Revue blanche magazine. When Natanson was on the brink of bankruptcy, the newspaper magnate Alfred Edwards saved him, on condition that he surrender his wife to him. Duly Misia upheld her part of the bargain and lived with Edwards. Misia's third marriage was to the Spanish painter Jose Maria Sert (1876-1945). She loved Sert, and gave him up when he fell in love with another woman, but kept his name.

She hosted a literary-artistic salon in Paris and acquired considerable influence in Parisian musical and artistic circles, Claude Debussy, as well as painters such as Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Vuillard, and Pierre Bonnard were among her guests. She was a confidante of Pablo Picasso and Jean Cocteau, an early patron of Sergei Diaghilev's Ballets Russes and a close friend of the designer Coco Chanel. The painters painted her and the composers aired their masterpieces at her piano, which she herself could play very well. Her taste was original, penetrating and in most cases definitive. Without directly creating anything, she was some kind of artist herself— rather like Diaghilev, of whom she was the soul-mate and valued adviser. However you had to be of note and gifted even before Misia wanted to know you.

One of the most famous portraits of Misia, is that of Renoir, now hanging in the National Gallery London. Renoir longed to paint Misia with the famous breasts naked, but she would never bare them to him, probably because Edwards was lurking heavily in the adjacent room, ready to exact jealous vengeance even though the artist by that time was an all but total cripple. At one point during her marriage to Edwards, Misia rewarded Renoir for a portrait by giving him a blank cheque. He filled it in with the going rate.

She was one of the models for Toulouse-Lautrec's poster for La Revue Blanche in 1896, in which she is shown as a skater.

Ravel dedicated "Le Cygne" (The Swan) in Histoires naturelles, and La Valse (The Waltz) to her.
Two of her main influences in life who stuck with her to the bitter end were Chanel and Cocteau. In her old age they stuck with her, no matter how old and feeble she had become, not just through the ravages of old age but for the habit of injecting morphine straight through her clothes.

The catalyst for launching others on to stardom, Misia is less remembered than what she should be, and went through life with great savoir faire!

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Tropic Savoir Faire!

It is a shame that the pith helmet went out of style, as these dapper young men look quite at home in their wonderfully crisp suits and pith helmets exploring the pleasures of Angkor Wat!

Seated Savoir Faire

Would you believe that one of the 21st century’s most popular chairs has its design roots firmly planted in the 4th century BC in Ancient Greece? The Klismos chair is instantly recognisable for its four gently curving splayed legs; it’s elegantly curved back rails with a narrow concave backrest between them. It has been depicted on Ancient Greek pottery and has been resurrected in the French Directoire, English Regency, and American Empire styles, only to resurface again in the design repertoire of the 21st century.


The klismos has endured for centuries and has seen many interpretations. One of my favourites is English regency, especially teemed with a classic regency striped fabric seat. (As a child growing up many a Sunday roast was spent sitting on my parent’s regency dining chairs).

The classicizing phase of Modernism allied with Art Deco found the simple lines of the klismos once again in favor and they have endured ever since with examples coming from sources as diverse as IKEA and Ralph Lauren! They add a touch of elegant classicism to any interior as in the example below with them teamed with the ever so stylish table from Eero Saarinen.


Those Ancient Greeks certainly knew how to sit with savoir faire!

Friday, September 4, 2009

Savoir Faire under Duress!

You have to hand it to this young society devotee! Even with her plastered arm, she is soldiering on and working that sleeveless white blouse for all it is worth. Whether this is a savoir faire faux pas or not I will let you be the judge!

Weekend Away with Savoir Faire!

It’s the weekend, and this young man is thinking of going away! By the looks of it he has chosen Spain for a little sojourn. My only question is, with all his savoir faire is he going to bring that plaid blanket with him??

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Stadio Faire!

On my forthcoming visit to Italy in less than two weeks time, I am going to make an extra special effort to visit the The Stadio dei Marmi that stands beside the larger and better-known Olympic stadium. A little off the beaten tourist track, but something I do want to visit, for the sheer monumentalism and aesthetic look of the place.

Designed by Enrico Del Debbio and built in 1932 as part of Mussolini’s grand plan this is fascist architecture with a softer edge. I know one shouldn’t extol the virtues of a repressive regime, but the stadio is beautiful, from the white marble to the intricate mosaics in the plaza surrounding it.


The crowning achievement of its design are the 59 (originally 60) marble statues of athletes in the classical style outlining its perimeter. These are hyper-muscular athletes in poses of exaggerated physical vigour that portray the aesthetic of the time and Mussolini’s grandiosity. We have all seen various pictures of these statues not realising where they have come from. These represent the power which Italy was to become drawing inspiration from a classical past.






So I cannot wait to see these statues in all their masculine glory!
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