Monday, October 25, 2010

Savoir Faire Then and Now

We know the big names of couture and the it designers of today, but how many of us really know the history behind a house or what the original design aesthetic was actually like?

Are the new designers who take over the creative directorships of these houses following the design aesthetics that the original names followed or are they going off in their own directions using references from the house’s archives to inspire them?

Are they reinterpreting the look, the cachet or just in it to make money? Where elegance and sophistication was the catchphrase most used to describe these “old” houses what would the catchphrase be now. Previously we could see continuous evolution, the refinement of a line, a certain aesthetic, what do we see now?

Here are some then and now photos of some such houses that had their beginnings almost half a century ago and what they are producing now? What do you think?

Pierre Balmain



Balenciaga



Christian Dior




Chanel


Givenchy




Nina Ricci




Yves Saint Laurent




9 comments:

  1. Except for John Galiano at Dior and Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, I'm not so sure that any of the modern designers at the classic brands are an improvement in terms of the original designs.

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  2. Dior and Chanel are so iconic, it'd be impossible to not reference them, I think.

    But poor Nicolas Ghesquiere....what a difficult task he has there.

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  3. I ALWAYS LOVE HOW YOU MIX YOUR VINTAGE PHOTOS WITH MODERN ONES AND YOU CANT TELL THE DIFFERENCE :)

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  4. This is a subject of great interest to me. I think that in the case of Balmain and Balenciaga, it is rather pointless and irrelevant to use the illustrious name in a way not connected to the great heritage; I mean why not just start afresh?

    The fashions are most successful when the house has an identifiable signature look, such as Chanel, or Pucci, and current designs reference them but change colours, proportions, materials, etcetera. I've often thought that some of those houses did such wonderful designs that their vintage pieces should be adapted and re-issued as deluxe ready to wear. A good example would be your photo of the ensemble by Dior with the black scarf and hat.

    I hate it when I see a fashion that is distressed, shredded, very street, and edgy in a way that doesn't remotely look like something Balmain or Balenciaga would design. It is like calling a well used skateboard a new Rolls Royce. I don't so much object to these modern designs as have a problem with it being associated with a heritage that it seems to not understand. In a way it is disrespectful.

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  5. brilliant post david, i love how you take me to considerations that i haven't visited yet and totally see why you have. you're brilliant!

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  6. Are any of the 50's photographs available for purchase? I would like to frame some for my dressing room. I'm having a hard time finding sources. Any help? Thank you. I really enjoy your blog.

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  7. intricate details on all the garments- love it.

    Jose C.
    xx

    http://myvisualpleasures.blogspot.com

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  8. Belle, you are right I think Lagerfeld and Galliano are using the right points of reference for their designs.

    AM, Jules and Jose, many thanks for your comments.

    Anomynous, Sites like Getty and Corbis sell images.

    Jotaelle, yes I think I am with you

    Mr SWF- very apt commentary

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