Missing Lacroix!

Well, another round of Haute Couture showings are abounding this week in Paris. One name that has been sorely missed these last two years has been that of Lacroix.

Perhaps no other designer except for maybe Galiano understood Couture better than Lacroix. A master colourist and technician couture under his direction at Patou achieved a renaissance in the early 90's. However the very nature of couture and the incredible expense involved proved unlucky for Lacroix.

His couture is just as relevant as that being produced today, and are classic pieces in workmanship, colour, texture and dramatic effect!

So while other bloggers in the blogosphere are concentrating on this weeks collections I am going back to all the fantasy, luxury and savoir faire that was Lacroix! Enjoy!

Sleeping With Christian Lacroix

We all know how much I love Christian Lacroix! As a designer he is unrivalled in his sense of colour, historical references and technique. Much collaboration has ensured utilising the talent of Monsieur Lacroix since he left the world of haute couture. With companies from Air France to Avon utilising his amazing capabilities and the cachet that a Lacroix design has.

Although it is becoming increasingly rare to be able to wear Lacroix except for vintage (and sometimes vintage is the only way to go) now we all have a chance to sleep with him! Ok not with him personally, but in several different hotels in Paris. It seems that the talent of Monsieur Lacroix knows no bounds and interior decoration is something he excels at.

Hotel le Bellechasse, Saint Germain has been entirely decorated by Lacroix and each of its 34 rooms is as individual as he is. Unassuming from the exterior upon entering the guest is immediately assaulted with an amazing array of colour, texture and design which is a tour de force and a feast for the eyes.

The Hotel du Petit Moulin is located in an old bakery in the Marais.

Lacroix says "I immediately fell for the slightly twisted perspectives, the maze-like passageways on the different floors and the new functional areas which have been added in full respect of the "old Paris" style of the classified parts of the building."

Slightly more modern than the Hotel le Bellchasse there are typical Lacroix motifs throughout the hotel like the use of coral, however each room takes its references from the history of the Marais where the hotel is located, from the 18th century through to the sixties.

Both Hotels are typically Lacroix with references and pieces all through history used in the decoration, with of course an amazing selection of colour and texture abounding. While of course not to everyone’s taste, both these places are somewhere where I would want to rest my weary head!

"I always loved the idea of hotels, of the journey around a room" Christian Lacroix.

Lacroix and Patou

Before Christian Lacroix set out by himself in 1987 he was at the helm of Jean Patou. Now unfortunately both Patou and Lacroix no longer produce clothes. Patou has been reduced to a shade of its former glory with just perfumes which are waning in today’s markets, and Lacroix always teetering on the edge of bankruptcy.

Recently this year the last Haute Couture collection for Jean Patou by Christian Lacroix went up for auction. This was a chance for bidders to purchase the end of an era and the beginning of the next.

The creations hold that un-mistakable Lacroix style, while maintaining some of the Patou design aesthetic, which is important. We have the juxtaposition of a couture house trying to maintain its design roots and the birth of another brand new house as Lacroix then left to start off on his own. When he took over at Patou the house was flagging, and Lacroix seduced us all with fabulous, luxurious shows, which put himself and not Patou in the limelight. There had not been a new opening of a couture house in Paris since Saint Laurent in 1961, and Lacroix’s timing was impeccable. However as the 90’s wore on it became obvious that couture was no longer becoming viable.

The collection after being shown was never produced as Patou cancelled it and it went straight into the archives.

With all the rebirths happening or rumoured to happen, I think that Patou is a prime candidate for a relaunch. Maybe Christian should go back.

Lacroix Savoir Faire

With some homage to the late great Balenciaga, Christian Lacroix presented his latest Haute Couture collection in Paris this week. Poor Lacroix has been dodged with financial woes with his house teetering on the edge of bankruptcy several times over the last couple of years.


I have always had a soft spot for Lacroix. He is a genius with colour, textures and fabric, creating bold and eclectic creations, which have instant luxe.

The wonderful “sack” like dresses below, pay homage to Balenciaga in their simplicity and their cut, being rather sombre for Lacroix. Instantly wearable, they don’t need a lot of accessorising, as they rely on their form to carry them through. And the hats! If that isn’t in homage to the Balenciaga style of the fifties, I don’t know what is!


The backless evening dress is just stunning! Again relying on the lack of usual Lacroix trademarks to carry it through. The added bright red bow at the side oozes instant paired down glamour!

The tulle and sequined cocktail dress, draws on past couture of the fifties and updates it with a little more flesh for instant sex appeal, again the hat! Love it.