Thursday, August 26, 2010

Lanvin Robe de Style Savoir Faire


The 1920’s were an interesting times in Paris, especially where fashion was concerned. World War I had ended and the devastating effects of the Depression were a long way off. Paul Poiret, who had helped liberate women on the fashion stage, was on the way out and Chanel was in. le garcons ruled, with her shapeless body and shingled hair dancing the Charleston and drinking cocktails.


All the couturiers adopted this look, except one! The amazing Jeanne Lanvin, whose signature look was the “robe de style”. Other couture houses such as Callot Soeurs and Lucille had their own versions, however none were as successful as Lanvin’s. This was an alternative to the rather shapeless, straight cut chemise which was the height of fashion. Lanvin’s “robe de styles” were characterised by full skirts, with a dropped waist and fitted bodice. Petticoats, panniers and hoops emphasised the fullness of the skirts. These were then further embellished with intricate trimmings and extraordinary embroideries.




This was a look for a woman who did not have the figure to wear the tubular lines of the likes of Chanel or Patou. This was couture with an historical reference, harking back to the Infanta dresses of Spain. It was meant for afternoon teas, and tango dancing in the park; a kind of a cocktail, semi-formal ensemble. Lanvin made hundreds of variations on “the robe de style”; each one possesses its own unique charm.

Of course Lanvin produced fabulous outfits in keeping with the times and just did not limit herself the “robe de style”, however these stand apart to the savoir faire that Lanvin had.


The amazing thing is she never adopted the “robe de style” look for herself, but limited herself to discreet and simple outfits with minimal detail.



Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Collections with Savoir Faire!

You certainly cannot beat these two images for some decorating ideas! I love collecting things however my collections pale to insignificance with these two examples.

The collection of white opaline glass on the white shelf against this blue wall is stunning. The white creates such a dramatic impact against the blue.


The next one of white ceramics in this white cabinet has just as much dramatic impact as the blue and white above, but in an entirely different way. Just the small hint of brown and black add a just a bit more savoir faire to an otherwise stunning display!

Savoir Faire in the Playroom



Travelling as a child on a great ocean liner in the past was rather democratic. Whereas there were great distinctions between the classes as an adult passenger, there was not much difference between the playrooms of each class except their locations. As a child you also didn’t have to forsake any of the savoir faire either. Take for example the 1st class playroom for children aboard the legendary Normandie.

If you just happen to be a child travelling 1st class aboard the Normandie, you were practically treated to the same 1st class savoir faire as the adult passengers. Nothing less was expected.

Children had their own theatre type playroom with a Punch and Judy show. Decorating the walls with painted murals and a plethora of toys around the room was bright and cheery flooded with natural light.


Seating was adorable painted chairs upholstered in red leather in the shape of horses which could be arranged theatre style or in any other way.

Dining for these children was no miserable affair either. They had their own separate dining room decorated with images of Babar the Elephant by the creator himself, Jean de Brunhoff. Wonderfully modern chairs and a plaid carpet set the scene. For dining tables were set with linen and china just like the adult versions in other sections of the ship. I am sure that if the adult menus are anything to go by that these children would have eaten just as well.




Sure a far cry from the Disney/cartoon character inspired playrooms and children’s centres on today’s liners!

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Now Smell this!

Ok, I am sorry to say that most of my top ten men’s colognes are oldies, and not really available at your mainstream department store, but they are out there if you search! This is why I like them as wear one of these and people will be asking you “what are you wearing?” I really do not want to smell like every other Tom, Dick or Harry that has picked up their cologne through some advertising campaign that seems to be promoting sex, or because their significant other has bought it for them. Just realised I have something like a top twelve! I also recommend that women try these as well, I wear a lot of women’s perfumes as well and people are always intrigued as to what I am wearing. Pick one that is right for you and you will have a secret weapon of savoir faire!

So here they are not in any particular order. I haven’t included eau de cologne here because it is such a staple, that it is a given.

What is your favourite?

Monsieur Balmain by Pierre Balmain

A fresh burst of citrus heaven!



Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy

Wonderfully Gentleman like, with notes of sandlewood, rose and leather.

Yatagan by Caron

Actually my all time favourite that takes you to the exotic east.



Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior

A wonderful fresh citrus that will bring out the savage in you (in a good way).



Vetiver by Carven or Guerlain

Nice and earthy with touches of spice




Yardley Gentleman by Yardley

The quintessential English fragrance




Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene

The quintessential American fragrance.



D&G by Dolce & Gabanna

A modern day classic.



YSL Pour Homme

Another fresh burst of citrus



Signoricci by Nina Ricci

Nice and subdued that has class written all over it.


Ho Hang by Balenciaga

Created in 1971 with notes of bergamot, lemon, Portuguese orange and mint.



Habit Rouge by Guerlain

Need we say anymore re the advertisement below?


Monday, August 23, 2010

Lapel Faire!

I am a bit late with this post as ANZAC day in Australia is on April 25th, however I am going to continue as I think this is something that a gentleman (or lady) can adopt that has all the savoir faire in the world.

For those of you outside of Australia ANZAC stands for the Australian New Zealand Army Corp and ANZAC day is a national day of remembrance in Australia and New Zealand that commemorates those that fought in Gallipoli Turkey during World War I. It now more broadly commemorates all those who died and served in military operations for their countries.

A wonderful tradition is the wearing of small sprigs of rosemary in the coat lapel as a sign of remembrance and commemoration. My mother still has growing in her garden a rosemary bush that is over 50 years old taken from a sprig of rosemary that was worn by my grandfather in an ANZAC parade many years ago.


Now that the weather is getting cooler and men will be donning jackets once more I think nothing cuts more of a dash than wearing a boutonnière. However, nowadays flowers generally seem to be regulated to weddings and can be a little too formal. Instead grab a single herb and pin it to your label as below. Mint or lavender as does any herb looks fantastic. I always try and pin a little something on a lapel if I am wearing a jacket.



To be a little more unusual find some wheat or other grass with seeds and do the same. However just keep it a single variety, remember less is more!

Savoir Faire in Blue

While not particularly me, you cannot deny this sofa has some serious savoir faire and style going on!


Monday Savoir Faire

After posting on the Balenciaga and Saint Laurent men’s collections last week, which I was extremely disappointed with, thought it would be nice to start the work week off with some clothes that I would actually purchase and wear!

I have soft spot for that veritable French House of Carven. Little known these days and just a shade of its former self the house has struggled over the last decade or so to find a niche and survive. Founded in 1945 by Madame Carven who turned 100 last year the house has gone through several reorganisations over the last couple of years.

Now concentrating on ready to wear and under the directorship of Guillaume Henry, the house has refined its direction in tune with the 21st century.

The winter 2010 collection for men is simple paired down classic elegance which is instantly wearable. This is for the man who appreciates good quality and modernity without going over the edge. Good essentials to mix and match, however I do think a little splash of colour wouldn’t go astray, as some of it is a bit too muted, however will let you be the judge.










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