Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Savoir Quotes with a Desert Theme

Two of my favourite quotes from the movies with savoir faire unfortunately come from two movies that are not well known. Funnily enough they both concern alcohol and the desert

Most colourful is Dyan Cannon who plays the talent agent in that little known gem “The Last of Sheila” from 1973. When needing a drink Dyan murmurs.

"My mouth is so dry they could shoot 'Lawrence of Arabia' in it"

She also goes on to say at another stage in the film.

"I hate my luggage more than life itself" (Obviously she didn’t have any Vuitton in tow)


The next one is from “Modesty Blaise” from 1966, based very loosely on the comic strip of the same name. (Bad movie but very camp and enjoyable)

Dirk Borgarde (Mmmm!!) plays the high camp villain Gabriel who towards the end of the movie is lost in the desert, and murmurs;

“Champagne, Champagne”
Other mere mortals would be murmuring “water, water”


Schiaparelli Savoir Faire Relaunch?

Constant rumors are abounding over the possible relaunch of the House of Schiaparelli after a hiatus over 50 years. In fact I am sure in some circles it is the only thing on everyone’s lips, if not only for the correct pronunciation of her name.

There is a website floating out there in cyber space http://www.schiaparelli.com/ that does hint of a possible relaunch however there are no links. It is a visual feast of all the things Schiap became known for, however that is it. Owner Diego Della Valle is being very tight lipped.

So the question on everyone’s lips is who? Which designer is going to be given the heavy task of the reinterpretation of Schiaparelli’s style into the 21st century, with enough savoir faire, so that it doesn’t seem a parody of its original self?

The possible relaunch comes at a time when surrealism is hot. The Art Gallery of Ontario, Toronto is currently running an exhibition called “Surreal Things”, which prominently showcases some of Schiaparelli’ work from dresses, accessories and perfumes, even recreating (with the original, no doubt) the gilded birdcage that displayed her perfumes in the 21 Place Vendome boutique in Paris. Also on display is the iconic Dali Tear dress of the 1930’s, Dali's lobster dress worn by the Duchess of Windsor and the famous shoe hat.


Gossip has it that Olivier Theyskens is tagged to be named creative director. After stints at reviving Rochas (a bit short lived) and Nina Ricci, we wonder if this is going to last if he is the chosen one.

So style mavericks keep your fingers crossed that this is true and we will see Schiaparelli live again and that it won’t be a complete disaster!

Monday, June 8, 2009

Grand Savoir Faire

Cocktails at the Menzies Hotel Melbourne circa 1965, certainly reeked of Savoir Faire. Take a behemoth Victorian Hotel decorated to excess with all the trappings and grandeur that the era could offer (and that the building could endure), update it with a 60’s style bar and furniture, populate artily with models with cocktails and cigarettes in hand and voila! Instant chic and savoir faire.
Take the same models dressed in the best fashion that Australia could offer in 1965, this time in a stairwell, and again instant chic! I love how models were used to convey the sense of how hotels, airlines wished to portray their image. In this case even though the building and interiors were something of an anachronism, the image portrayed is one of casual modern elegance, something a potential guest could aspire to and even have the chance to rub shoulders with the rich and beautiful.

Built in 1867 in time for the visit of the Duke of Edinburgh. Remodelled in the high Victorian 1880s to an unusual eclectic Second Empire ornamentation. Built in 6 months, the hotel was one of the worlds foremost and finest. Host to Alexander Graham Bell, Herbert Hoover, Dame Nellie Melba and General Douglas Macarthur. Sadly demolished in 1969 to make way for a modern office building.

Each city needs a grand hotel as such, and luckily Melbourne still has the Windsor!

Friday, June 5, 2009

Catwalk at 35,000

You all might think that when it comes to air travel that I am living in the past, and yes I admit it, I am. Before the advent of no frills airlines, cost cutting, larger planes, and stringent security measures, flying was indeed an event that one could look forward to and just reeked of savoir faire.

One of the things that we could indeed look forward to was to see how our lovely air hostesses were outfitted. Be it the latest styles from the couturiers and designers in Europe to costumes that reflected the local dress of the national flag carrier. The aisle of the airplane was a virtual catwalk, with daring designs pushing the drinks trolley with aplomb. Nowadays uniforms are bland, generic styles that might be built for comfort and ease but do they really create a lasting impression? Of course there are a few exceptions to the rule, one being Singapore Airlines, whose uniform has not changed since its inception.

If there was one thing that added to the prestige and image of an airline, was the fact that a leading fashion designer had designed their uniforms. Emilio Pucci for Braniff is a prime example. The designs were eye catching reminders of the corporate image of the airline that constantly reminded us we were flying Braniff.

Pucci was also busy on the other side of the world, down in Australia, designing uniforms for Qantas. Totally different than the Braniff line, the print used reflected the native flora of Australia, with even a bikini being made for idle sunning by the pool in an exotic location.

Pierre Balmain was busy in Asia designing the Singapore Airlines Uniform. In 1968, the former Malaysian Singapore Airlines called upon Balmain to design uniforms for their cabin crew, with just a minor tweak to the collar in 1974 they have been in continuous service ever since. Balmain based his design on the traditional Malay sarong-kebaya. Part of their continual allure is down to Balmain insisting that the uniforms were fully tailored (rather than off the peg), and to this day Singapore Airlines’ in-house tailors have a minimum of two fittings with each crew member and provide her with 4 new uniforms each year.

Another notable design by Balmain was for Trans World in the 1950’s.

Hardy Amies in the sixties designed a wonderful uniform for BEA which was full of understatement and un-mistakingly British. Amies was also commissioned by Pakistan International to outfit their cabin crew in the early 70’s and came up with a uniform (even though a bit dowdy) that worked within the brief he was given.



Pierre Cardin on the other hand came up with a space age tour de force for Olympic of Greece.


Other designs by Cardin included PIA and UTA of France

Christian Dior for SAS
United.

Bring back the fashion. the style and the savoir faire! While I am sipping my Gin, give me something to look at.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Eurovision - Savoir Faire (or not)

Ok, I am going to go a little off topic here, even though you have to admit the following have some sort of savoir faire. I am not sure where it is hiding, but it is there!

With all the hype about American Blah (oops meant to write Idol), no blog on a song contest can be without a mention of the song contest to end all song contests – Eurovision. Funny how Eurovision has not really become popular this side of the Atlantic, when the rest of the world is watching on tenterhooks to see who will take the prize this year.

A bit of background for those Eurovision virgins. The Eurovision Song Contest is an annual competition held among active member countries of the European Brodcasting Union and has been held every year since its inauguration in 1956. Each member country submits an artist and song in the contest and the decision is made by votes from the other countries. One of the more famous winners of the contest has been ABBA.

Sometimes we see the great, the good and the riduclous, however this is pure entertainment. There is no drawn out torturous procedure, like Idol, which relies on votes from the general public (God bless their little cotton sox), who generally seem to vote for who is cute and not on singing ability. While America is sitting down on their sofas, with a bowl of ice cream watching a sing off between two contestants, the rest of the world is hosting Eurovision parties, drinking champagne, watching a sing off between the best and sometimes the worst that Europe has to offer and hoping that their favourite wins.

Some of this year’s entries are below. Mind you I haven’t labeled them so as to protect the guilty, however savoir faire in some form or another is there! As you can see contestants dont just rely on musical ability to make an impression. Maybe American Idol could take a few pointers?









Monday, May 11, 2009

Top Twelve Men's Fragrances with Savoir Faire

Why just limit one's self to a top 10 when as a gentleman you can have a top TWELVE! Here is a list of my top twelve men's fragrances. Unfortunately not all available, but you can at least find one or two of these, that will give you the edge!

Listed in no particular order as I will let you be the judge!

Snuff by Schiaparelli
Vetiver by Guerlain
Signoricci 2 by Nina Ricci


Gentleman by Yardley



Monsieur Lanvin by Lanvin


Monsier Balmain by Pierre Balmain


Ho Hang by Balenciaga


Habit Rouge by Guerlain


Gentleman by Givenchy

Eau Sauvage by Christian Dior


4711

Vetiver by Carven

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Savoir Faire from Hardy Amies

I doesnt get any better than this!

Bespoke from Hardy Amies, London


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