Monday, June 22, 2009

Milan Savoir Faire 2010

Ok I profess not to be some 20 year old something with drop dead model good looks and a body too die for, so when I hear of the latest menswear collections from Milan or Paris, I kind of cringe on the outside while my inner self is thinking, mmmmm I would love to wear that!

Of course when we see a runway show, we see the beefed up version of a look and how the designer would like the whole lot to look like, before it filters down to a somewhat diluted version on the high street. As with most things I am a classicist and believe that good cut and quality make up for a lot of sins. I also say that one good piece will negate several bad ones. When in London I go crazy on Jermyn Street buying shirts from Hawes and Curtis, every day staples from Austin Reed, and then something a bit out there which I will wear probably once form some designer.

Milan this year seemed to be playing it safe in a lot of areas especially where cut and gimmicks were concerned. Given the economic crisis, designers are not experimenting with avant-garde clothing, but sticking to easy to understand, familiar styles from the classic suit to sporty shorts. The subdued summer palette makes the difference. These are not bright in your face colours, but colours that have been paired down with ease to make them wearable by all.

Gucci designer Frida Giannini, who showed her latest collection on Sunday, used pristine white to express optimism. But the silhouette was slim and tailored, offering what the designer said was "an effortless approach to luxury''. For evening, deep blue replaces black, and the stiffness of a tuxedo jacket is relaxed by Milan Savoir Faire 2010


Armani was Armani with classic suits albeit a bit slimmer than previous seasons taking the catwalk in a rather interesting colour pallet. The expensive simplicity of the line makes these clothes classics in their severity.


Resort wear was casual with a touch or formality which didn’t make it too stiff and would be totally at home on the terrace of The Mena House in Cairo while discussing the day’s sightseeing.

All in all not too bad, so if your budget isn’t going to stretch to a new Armani suit this season, wear last season’s with pride and savoir faire, knowing that true classics never go out of style.

3 comments:

  1. I don't know if it's the economic crisis (and its squeeze on my budget), or just the fact that I'm turning into a disapproving dowager a la Gladys Cooper; but new menswear collections no longer thrill me at all. Designer labels bore me. If I had a few thousand dollars to blow, I'd rather do it at, say, Paul Stuart than at the Gucci or Armani or Prada boutiques.

    I planned my entire spring/summer wardrobe around five staple pieces: my espresso brown spring/summer suit; my tan spring/summer suit; my robin's egg blue silk mohair sportcoat; my billiard green raw silk sportcoat; and my boy-cut navy blazer.

    I just mix these up, make them seem more interesting and fresh with an assortment of new bow ties and pocket squares. I also stick to a basic pallette of white, light blue or pink shirts (people remember patterns, and will notice you wearing the same patterned shirt; not so with the basics), and let the cut of the jacket or suit and the color of the accessories carry the outfit.

    Oh, and shoes. One must always splurge on excellent shoes.

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  2. The cut of the black suit is superb. Thanks for visiting my blog!

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  3. TJ - I am half in aggreement with you. I tend to stick to a few classic pieces, like a navy pin stripe suit, silk ties and a clasically cut shirt with french cuffs for business wear.

    However I can drool over the collections or is it the models?? I am not sure anymore.

    I love your colour descriptions!

    Jill- Thanks for visting mine too. I love that stool!

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